At Lakkoskiti, four years ago, I followed the routine of the monastics, including working at the obedience they gave me. For two weeks, it was as if I were a quasi-member of the community.
Here, at Nea Skiti, if I’m not hiking/exploring somewhere (and there is a lot to explore here), I sit. Here is where I usually sit:
(I would back up for a wider angle view if it weren’t the case that it would involve falling off the terrace.)
And here is what I see from my sit spot:
(The sunlight glistens off the Aegean Sea like it is coated with diamonds. It is mesmerizingly beautiful.
The land that I see on the horizon is the middle of three fingers that jut out into the Aegean Sea.
I’m at the blue dot on the top peninsula, known as Mount Athos, The Holy Mountain, or Holy Mount Athos, looking toward the west by northwest. Mount Athos begins just past Ouranoupoli (i.e., heavenly city), which is the port from which I ferried to my sit spot; you can see that city near where the top finger joins the palm. (Mount Athos is both a peninsula and a mountain. You can’t see the top of the mountain from here, but it rises out of the sea to a height of about 6700 feet. Very imposing.)
For a little more geographical context:
(I remain at the little blue dot, sitting.)
From my sit spot I can see the sun sitting:
And, if I’m patient and keep vigil (or, as in my case, sleep and get up early), the following morning the moon sits too.
So, as you can see, a lot ‘happens’ from my sitting, including the patient growth of the surrounding fruit-bearing trees and vines, as well as a wide variety of fragrant herbs— all on the terrace.
Learning how to watch the sun and moon sit, and the plants to grow, is no small task. My fledgling efforts are infused, however, by a Fr. Roman story circa 2011. He entered the old chapel before Vespers, after having gone for a walk in the gently falling snow, and exclaimed with his customary infectious joy, “It’s so quiet out there I can hear the snow falling!” And I’m sure he could. I only wonder at what it must sound like.
Not all chairs are created equal, and part of becoming an experienced sitter involves trying out different chairs. Here is one that caught me by surprise.
Looks are deceiving. It took me a few days to be willing to try this chair out; now it’s my favorite.
A more little information about where I sit: I’m at a hut named in honor of St. John the Theologian (apostle, evangelist).
This hut is one of 27 active huts in a Skete named, Nea Skiti (New Skete). There are also three huts that remain in ruins. I saw photos of this hut from 16 years ago when Fr. Paisios first arrived. It consisted of four crumbling walls. It looked a lot like this one:
Now it’s teeming with life. It’s a nice image of the resurrection. Dry bones live again. (And I assure you it wasn’t accomplished simply by sitting.)
There are three monastics here, Elder (Father, Geronta, Staretz) Paisios, and two monks. None of them are priests so they do readers services, and on a fairly regular basis they have a priest come for Divine Liturgy. (On Sundays and Feast days all the huts gather in the Kyriakon—the Sunday Church). They are especially grateful for visiting priests who can serve the Liturgy for them. To my surprise, and ineffable delight, Father Paisios asked me to serve Liturgy today (Saturday). What joy!
In addition to installing solar panels, the two monks maintain an impressive garden, vineyard, fruit and olive trees, as well as make incense and paint icons.
Their normal schedule, from which they freely and frequently deviate, is:
- 6-8am midnight office, Matins, 1st hour (and concluding prayers from 3rd and 6th), and supplicatory canon.
- 8:00-8:01 (I’m joking, but you get the idea) breakfast
- After breakfast til 1:30, work.
- 1:30-1:31 Lunch
- After lunch to 4:30, rest (see photo below)
- 4:30-5:30 9th hr, Vespers, Compline
- 5:30 tea, coffee, lemonade
- 5:30 til 8:30, work
- 8:30-8:31 dinner
- 9p-6a cell time: rest and pray rule
(I do what they do but where it says ‘work’, I sit (or explore).). Sign on their gate:
Holy Hut of St John the Theologian Hours for stillness: 2-5pm
In certain respects, Fr. Paisios reminds me of Fr. Roman. He effortlessly disguises his depth of living, experiential knowledge behind a childlike delight in everything and everyone. He lives his life as a simple humble monk, with no fanfare.
I like it here very much. Fr. Paisios has me participate in all the services, spends lots of time with me, guides me on where to explore—all as if I were a member of the community—and he lets me sit.
